Yes, some Labradors point. Most Labs are flushing retrievers that charge in, push the bird up and bring it back, but a minority freeze on scent with one paw lifted, just like a pointer. A few breeders have spent decades selecting for that trait, and there’s even an organization that tests and titles pointing Labs. Whether your own Lab will point depends mostly on its genes, and then on training.
I’ll explain where pointing Labs come from, how to tell if your dog has the instinct, how pointing is trained, and the trade-offs a hunter should think about.
Do Labradors point?
Some do, most don’t. Labs were developed as retrievers. Their original job was to sit quietly by a hunter, mark where a shot bird fell, and fetch it from land or water. You can read more about what Labrador Retrievers were bred for in my history guide.
Pointing is a different instinct. A pointing dog searches ahead, catches bird scent and then stops dead, holding still so the hunter can walk up. A flushing dog, like most upland-hunting Labs, works close and pushes the bird into the air instead.
Many Labs show a brief, natural “flash point” as puppies, freezing for a second when they catch a scent or see a bird. That’s a sign of the instinct, and it’s surprisingly common. A steady, reliable point that holds until the hunter arrives is much rarer, and in Labs it usually comes from lines bred for it.
Where pointing Labs come from
Pointing Labs are an American development. Some breeders, mostly upland bird hunters in the Midwest and plains states, noticed that a few of their Labs pointed and began breeding those dogs together, selecting for the trait over many generations.
The American Pointing Labrador Association (APLA) formed in 1991 to test and promote these dogs. In 2019, the United Kennel Club agreed to recognize APLA titles on UKC pedigrees, describing APLA as the leading authority on breeding and testing Labs that point naturally.
APLA hunt tests are non-competitive. Dogs are judged against a standard at several levels, assessed on pointing, nose, search, cooperation, desire, and retrieving on land and water.
Pointing Labs are still purebred Labrador Retrievers on paper. Some purists argue the trait must have come from crossing in pointer blood decades ago. Others say it’s a natural, variable instinct that selective breeding simply strengthened. I don’t think that debate will ever be settled, and for a hunter, what matters is whether the dog does the job.
How to tell if your Lab has the pointing instinct
You can’t train a strong point into a dog with no instinct for it, but you can spot the instinct early. These are the signs I’d look for:
- A puppy that freezes and stares at a bird wing on a string or a fluttering feather
- Pausing and going rigid when it catches bird scent in the yard or field
- A lifted front paw and a stiff, high tail during that pause
- Creeping slowly toward a bird rather than rushing straight in
- Holding the pause longer as it matures, instead of always breaking
A quick test many trainers use is a bird wing tied to a fishing pole. Drag it in front of a young pup and flip it into the air when the pup gets close. A natural pointer often stops and stares. A natural flusher pounces.
If your Lab rushes every time, that’s not a failure. That’s a classic flushing retriever doing exactly what the breed was built for.
When pointing shows up in a Lab puppy
Pointing instinct can show surprisingly early. Many trainers report pups from pointing lines freezing on a bird wing at just 8 to 12 weeks old, often for only a second or two. That brief flash point is what you’re looking for at this age, not a polished performance.
The point usually gets longer and more intense through the first year, as the pup gains confidence around birds. Steadiness, holding through the flush and the shot, typically comes much later, often in the second year with consistent training. I wouldn’t judge a young Lab’s pointing ability before about six months, and I’d never write a pup off for flushing once or twice. Puppies are puppies.
Pointing Labs vs traditional Labs
Here’s how I’d compare the two styles for an upland hunter:
| Trait | Pointing Lab | Flushing Lab | My take |
|---|---|---|---|
| Search range | Wider, works ahead | Close, within gun range | Pointers cover more ground |
| On finding a bird | Freezes and holds | Flushes it straight away | Pointing gives you time |
| Best terrain | Open fields, prairie | Thick cover, brush | Depends where you hunt |
| Retrieving | Strong | Strong | Both are still retrievers |
| Waterfowl work | Usually good | Excellent | Flushing lines often calmer in a blind |
The big appeal of a pointing Lab is versatility. One dog can point pheasants in the morning and retrieve ducks from cold water in the evening, which is a lot to ask of most specialist pointing breeds.
The pros and cons of a pointing Lab
A pointing Lab can be a great hunting partner, but it’s not for everyone.
What I like about them:
- One dog for upland birds and waterfowl
- The Lab temperament, which makes them easy family dogs at home
- A smart, trainable mind that takes to structured field work
- A dense, water-resistant coat that handles cold mornings
What bugs me, or what I’d warn you about:
- Pointing lines are rarer, so good puppies are harder to find and often on waiting lists.
- Steadying a point takes skilled, patient training, often with a pro.
- A dog that’s half-committed to pointing and half to flushing can be frustrating in the field.
- Some waterfowl hunters prefer a calmer, flushing-line Lab for long sits in a blind.
If you hunt mostly ducks and geese, I’d stick with a traditional retriever line. If you chase pheasants, quail or sharp-tailed grouse across open country and want one dog for everything, a pointing Lab makes a lot of sense.
How to train a Labrador to point
Training builds on instinct, it doesn’t replace it. With a dog that has the instinct, the goal is to encourage the point, then make it steady and reliable. This is the general order I’d follow:
- Build solid basics first: sit, stay, recall and loose-leash walking.
- Introduce bird scent and wings in short, fun sessions while your pup’s young.
- Reward any natural pause or point with calm praise. Don’t rush in.
- Teach “whoa,” a stop-and-stand-still command, separately from birds.
- Combine “whoa” with birds on a check cord, so the dog learns to hold the point.
- Add steadiness slowly: holding through the flush, then through the shot.
- Only then work on the retrieve after the point.
Pointing should never be forced on a young dog. I’d keep early sessions short and positive, and save pressure and steadiness work until the pup’s at least several months old and confident.
My general guide to training a Labrador covers the basics this all depends on.
The good news is that Labs are among the easiest breeds to train, which helps a lot here. They want to work with you, and that makes the slow steadiness stage far less of a battle than it is with some independent pointing breeds.
Whistle, natural and hold methods
Trainers often mix a few approaches. Here’s how they fit together:
| Method | What it does | When to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Whistle commands | One blast to stop, a trill to come back | From early training on |
| Natural method | Let instinct show, then reward it | Puppy stage |
| Hold training | Teaches a soft, steady carry | Before serious retrieving |
Gun Dog magazine has a practical guide on using a whistle in dog training. A whistle carries much farther than your voice in wind and open fields, and it sounds the same whoever blows it.
Positive reinforcement works best for every stage. The Humane World for Animals guide to positive reinforcement training explains the principles clearly. Rewards, timing and short sessions get you further than corrections.
Steadiness and impulse control
Steadiness is the hardest part, and it’s really impulse control. A Lab that holds a point while a pheasant bursts out of the grass is showing enormous self-control.
I learned how much impulse control matters with Buck. At 5 months he had none around water, and on his first river trail visit he jumped into a swift current after a floating log before he’d learned recall. I had to sprint down the bank to get him out. Labs feel the pull of birds and water just as strongly, so I’d build “stay,” “whoa” and recall long before you need them in the field.
Gear for training a pointing Lab
You don’t need much to start, but a few pieces of kit make pointing work safer and easier. This is what I’d put in the bag:
- A 20 to 30 ft check cord, for controlling a dog on point without shouting
- A bird wing on a fishing pole or flirt pole, for puppy games
- A good whistle on a lanyard
- Blaze orange for you and a bright vest or collar for the dog
- Dried bird wings or scent for early scent work
- A remote bird launcher, if you get serious, so birds flush on your timing
I’d be careful with electronic collars. Some pro trainers use them well, but in the wrong hands they can kill a young dog’s enthusiasm for birds. Get the basics right with food, praise and a check cord first.
Mistakes to avoid when training a point
Most pointing problems are training problems, and the same few come up again and again. These are the ones I’d watch for:
- Pushing steadiness too early, before the pup loves birds
- Letting the dog chase every flushed bird, which teaches it that breaking point pays off
- Shouting “whoa” over and over, until the word means nothing
- Running sessions too long, so the dog gets bored or frustrated
- Skipping the retrieve work, since a pointing Lab still has to fetch
- Training only in one field, so the dog doesn’t generalize
Short, successful sessions win. I’d end every session on a good point and a happy dog, even if that means stopping after ten minutes.
Upland birds and pointing Labs
Pointing Labs shine on upland birds in open country. Pheasants are the classic quarry in the Midwest and plains, and a pointing Lab’s range and nose suit wide fields of grass and stubble. Quail, grouse and partridge are all fair game too, depending on where you live.
Pheasants are famous for running instead of holding, which tests any pointing dog. A Lab that relocates calmly, following the scent and pointing again, is worth its weight in gold. One that busts in and flushes the bird out of range will cost you shots.
Out here in the Pacific Northwest, terrain varies a lot, from open wheat country east of the mountains to thick, wet cover on the west side. In heavy brush a close-working flusher often makes more sense. In open country, a pointing dog’s extra range really pays off.
Finding a pointing Lab puppy
If you want a Lab that points, buying from a line bred for it is far more reliable than hoping a random Lab will. APLA test results on the parents are a good sign, and I’d ask to see titles from their hunt tests.
The usual breeder checks still apply. These are the questions I’d ask any Labrador breeder:
- Do both parents point, and what titles or test results do they have?
- Have the parents had hip, elbow and eye clearances, plus DNA tests like EIC and CNM?
- Can I see the parents work, or at least watch a video of them in the field?
- How are the puppies started on birds and scent?
- Will you take the dog back at any age if I can’t keep it?
Most pointing Lab breeders come from field Labrador lines, so expect a lean, athletic, high-drive dog. That’s great in the field and a lot of dog in a quiet house.
If you love the pointing style but aren’t set on a Lab, a mix like the Labany, a Brittany Lab mix, blends a true pointing breed with a retriever. It’s less predictable than a well-bred pointing Lab, though.
Pointing Labs as family dogs
Yes, with the right home. Under the field drive, a pointing Lab is still a Lab: friendly, people-focused and usually good with kids. From my experience with working-line retrievers, the dogs that are calmest at home are the ones that get real work, not just a walk around the block.
A pointing Lab from field lines needs daily running, retrieving and brain work, especially out of hunting season. Without it, expect a bored, busy dog. With it, you get a dog that hunts hard on Saturday and naps by the fire on Sunday.
FAQ
Can any Labrador be trained to point?
Not reliably. A dog needs at least some natural pointing instinct, which only a minority of Labs have. You can teach a Lab to stop on command, but a natural, steady point comes mostly from genetics, then training.
Are pointing Labs purebred?
Yes. Pointing Labs are registered as Labrador Retrievers with the AKC and UKC. Some people believe pointer blood was added generations ago, but there’s no definitive proof, and the dogs are bred and registered as Labs today.
What’s the difference between pointing and flushing?
A pointing dog finds a bird and freezes, holding still so the hunter can walk up. A flushing dog finds the bird and pushes it into the air straight away, within gun range. Most Labs are flushers.
Do pointing Labs still retrieve?
Yes. A good pointing Lab points, holds through the flush and shot, then retrieves on command. That’s what makes them versatile, and it’s why many upland hunters choose them.
Is a pointing Lab good for duck hunting?
Usually, yes. Most still love water and retrieve well. Some waterfowl hunters prefer calmer flushing-line Labs for long, quiet sits in a blind, so it depends on the individual dog.
My final word
Based on my research and a lot of time around field Labs, I’d say this: a pointing Lab is a real, useful dog, not a gimmick. But it’s a specialist within a breed of generalists. Buck came from a working gun-dog breeder in rural Oregon, and his passion is retrieving dock bumpers, even in freezing water. If you want both the point and the retrieve, buy the genes first and train the rest.
