Choosing the Right Chew Toy for Your Labrador

Labs chew. Puppies chew because their teeth hurt, adults chew because it feels good, and some chew because they’re bored.

The trick isn’t stopping it. It’s giving them something that’s safe to chew. So how do you pick the right chew toy for your Labrador? Match the toy to how your Lab chews, size it up, and make sure it’s not hard enough to break a tooth.

That last part is the one most people miss. Below I’ll go through chewing styles, the toy types that work for Labs, the ones I’d avoid, and how to keep chewing safe as your Lab grows and ages.

Start with your Lab’s chewing style

Labs don’t all chew the same way. Watching your Lab with a new toy for ten minutes tells you most of what you need to know.

Here are the three styles I’d look for:

The inhaler is the one to worry about. A Lab who swallows what they bite off can end up with a blockage, so these dogs need the toughest toys, sized generously, and someone watching.

The fingernail test

Hard chews are the main cause of broken teeth in dogs, and Labs are strong enough to crack a tooth on the wrong one. Cornell’s guide to fractured teeth in dogs advises avoiding antlers, hooves and bones, which can break teeth or splinter.

The simple check many vet dentists use is the fingernail test:

1. Press your thumbnail firmly into the chew.
2. If it leaves a small dent, it’s probably soft enough.
3. If it doesn’t give at all, it’s too hard for regular chewing.

A related rule of thumb: if you wouldn’t want to be hit on the knee with it, it’s too hard for your Lab’s teeth. I’d apply both to anything sold as “indestructible.” My post on Labrador teeth health covers the signs of a broken tooth and what to do about it.

Chew toy types that work for Labs

Here’s how the common types compare for a Lab:

Solid natural rubber is the safest all-round choice for most Labs. It gives under pressure, so it’s kind to teeth, and stuffing it with food turns a chew into a puzzle. My roundup of the best toys for Labradors includes the rubber toys that hold up.

A note on dental chews

Some chews really do help teeth. Look for the VOHC seal, which the Veterinary Oral Health Council awards to products shown to reduce plaque or tartar. They’re still treats, though, so count their calories, because large dental chews can add up fast for a Lab who gains weight easily. My post on whether dental chews are a good option for Labradors goes into more detail.

Soft and squeaky toys

Soft toys and squeakers are fun, but they’re for gentle Labs and supervised play. My guides on the pros and cons of plush toys and why Labs love squeaky toys explain how to use them without a trip to the vet.

The chew toy Buck has had for seven years

If I could only buy one chew toy for a Lab, it’d be a KONG Extreme, the black one, in XXL. Buck has had his for seven years, and it’s still in one piece. It’s the right size to stuff with peanut butter and freeze, and that gives him about two hours of happy distraction.

It isn’t perfect, so here’s my honest list:

• Virtually indestructible for a strong adult chewer
• Hollow, so it takes food, which makes it a puzzle as well as a chew
• Bounces unpredictably, which some Labs love for fetch
• Heavy enough to scuff hardwood floors when Buck drops it off the couch
• The rubber gets tacky if it’s left out in the sun for long

The black Extreme is the firmest version. I’d still check it with the fingernail test for your own dog, and pick one of the softer classic or puppy versions for a puppy or a senior with worn teeth. Size up if you’re between sizes, because a Lab who can fit the whole thing behind his back teeth is a Lab who can choke on it.

Easy stuffing ideas

A stuffed rubber toy is only as good as what’s inside. Use part of your Lab’s daily food, so the treat doesn’t turn into extra pounds. These are the fillings I’d rotate:

1. Soaked kibble, mashed and frozen overnight
2. Plain canned pumpkin (not pie filling) mixed with kibble
3. Xylitol-free peanut butter, a thin layer only, since it’s calorie-dense
4. Plain, unsweetened yogurt, frozen
5. Wet dog food with a few pieces of carrot pressed in

Freezing makes it last three or four times as long. Keeping two in the freezer means there’s always one ready when the doorbell rings or you need an hour of quiet.

Chews I’d avoid

Some popular chews cause more trouble than they’re worth. Based on my research, these are the ones I’d skip for a Lab:

• Antlers, hooves and real bones (the Cornell tooth-fracture warning)
• Very hard nylon or plastic chews that fail the fingernail test
• Cooked bones of any kind, which can splinter
• Ice cubes for hard chomping, which Cornell’s canine health center also advises against
• Small balls or chews that fit entirely in your Lab’s mouth
• Toys with small parts, like plastic eyes or loose squeakers

Rawhide is a judgment call. It’s popular, but a Lab can swallow a large softened piece, which can cause choking or a blockage. If you use it at all, I’d choose large pieces, supervise closely, and take it away once it gets small enough to swallow.

Edible chews and your Lab’s waistline

Edible chews are treats, not toys, and the calories are easy to underestimate. A Tufts University study of bully sticks found they contained roughly 9 to 22 calories per inch, so a single 6 inch stick can add close to 90 calories. For a 70 lb Lab on about 1,400 calories a day, that’s a meaningful slice of the total.

Here’s how I’d keep edible chews from turning into weight gain:

• Count every chew in the day’s calories, and trim meals to match
• Pick chews that last, rather than ones a Lab finishes in two minutes
• Take away the last small piece before it can be swallowed whole
• Give them a few times a week, not every day
• Wash your hands after handling raw animal chews

That last point surprises people. The same Tufts team also found bacteria on some of the bully sticks they tested, so treat them like raw meat in the kitchen. For everyday chewing, a stuffed rubber toy filled with part of your Lab’s normal food is the lower-calorie choice.

What chew toys are made of

Labs spend hours with toys in their mouths, so the material matters as much as the toughness. In the US, dog toys aren’t held to the same safety testing as children’s toys, which means the label is often all you have to go on.

Here’s how I’d think about common materials:

A few warning signs I’d watch for on any toy:

• A strong chemical smell when you open the package
• No information on materials or where it’s made
• Paint or coatings that rub off on your fingers
• Cheap squeakers that pop out on the first day

Buying from a company that answers questions about its materials is the closest thing to a safety check you’ll get. If a toy starts to crack, flake or leave colored bits in your Lab’s mouth, it’s done.

Sizing chew toys for a Lab

Size matters as much as material. The AKC’s guide to choosing dog toys advises picking balls for large breeds that are big enough that your dog can’t choke on or swallow them by accident.

For a Lab, that means:

• Large or extra-large sizes for adults, even if the packaging says “medium” fits their weight
• A toy that can’t fit entirely behind the back teeth
• Sizing up again when a toy wears down
• Puppy sizes only for young puppies, swapped out as they grow

When in doubt, size up. A toy that looks a bit big is far safer than one that’s a bit small.

Chew toys by age

What works for a puppy isn’t right for a senior. Here’s how I’d adjust:

Teething puppies chew hardest of all, and the ASPCA notes that intense puppy chewing usually ends by about six months. Adolescence often brings a second wave, so tough toys matter most between about 6 months and 2 years. My post on Labradors chewing on everything covers that stage.

Making chew toys last and stay interesting

A good chew toy is wasted if your Lab ignores it. Rotating toys keeps them interesting, because dogs lose interest in the same toy quickly.

From my experience writing about Lab toys, these habits help most:

1. Keep three or four toys out and store the rest.
2. Swap them every few days.
3. Stuff a rubber toy with part of a meal and freeze it.
4. Check every toy for cracks or loose pieces before handing it over.
5. Wash rubber toys regularly, especially after food.

That last point matters with stuffable toys, which collect old food fast. My guide on how to clean your Lab’s toys covers each material.

When a chew toy causes trouble

Even with good choices, Labs sometimes swallow pieces they shouldn’t. Knowing the warning signs means you can act fast if it happens.

Call your vet or an emergency clinic right away if your Lab shows any of these after chewing:

• Repeated vomiting, or retching without bringing anything up
• Not eating, which is a big red flag in a Lab
• A sore or swollen belly, or restlessness and trouble lying down
• Straining to poop, or no poop for more than a day
• Gagging, pawing at the mouth or drooling a lot
• A cracked tooth, bleeding gums or chewing on one side only

Don’t try to make your dog vomit at home unless your vet tells you to. Some objects do more damage coming back up. Bring the rest of the toy, or the packaging, so the vet knows what’s missing.

Broken teeth are the quieter problem. Labs rarely show tooth pain clearly, so a fractured tooth can go unnoticed for months. I’d look at your Lab’s teeth every few weeks, especially the big upper cheek teeth that take the most force from hard chews, and my post on Labrador teeth health covers what to look for.

When chewing is a problem

Chewing toys is healthy. Chewing furniture, walls or door frames is a different story, especially if it happens mostly when you’re out. Destructive chewing when alone can be a sign of separation anxiety, not just boredom.

I’d look at exercise, mental work and time alone first. If the chewing continues, talk to your vet and consider a certified trainer or a veterinary behaviorist. My post on why your Labrador chews his toys on you covers the more cheerful side of Lab chewing.

FAQ

My last word on chew toys

Labs are going to chew either way. Give them the right thing to chew, sized up and soft enough to pass the fingernail test, and you’ll save your shoes, your furniture and their teeth.